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Cotton is a natural plant based fiber and is considered one of the most environmentally friendly options.

COTTON

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PROS

  • Most cotton is genetically modified to be resistant to the bollworm pest, which improves yield and reduces pesticide use

  • Requires high levels of water in the production- this means lakes and rivers are drained to irrigate. This upsets ecosystems and threatens the health of wildlife and people. To produce one cotton T-shirt, 700 gallons of water are needed. The burden of creating this water-intensive material often is put on drier countries, such as Pakistan which is currently in a severe water crisis.

  • Cotton is a natural fibre that can biodegrade at the end of its life.

CONS

  • Pesticides- the production of conventional cotton requires a mixture of harmful pesticides which endangers the health of workers. The production of organic cotton without pesticides is incredibly costly and thus forces many of these farmers into extreme debt. 83% of synthetic fertilisers end up in the atmosphere, emitting large amounts of nitrous oxide. The cotton industry now uses 25% of the worlds insecticides and 10% of the world presticide’s usage. Between 1-3% of agricultural workers worldwide suffer from acute pesticide poisoning.

  • Durable, breathable and highly versatile fabric

  • This GM crop can lead to problems down the line, e.g. ‘superweeds’ that are resistant to standard pesticides thus have to be treated with more toxic pesticides that are harmful to livestock/humans

  • This material has to be transported long distances as the majority of its production is in foreign countries

  • According to the World Health Organisation, 20,000 people in developing countries die of cancer/miscarrages as a result of the chemicals sprayed on conventional cotton

Linen is a textile made from the fibres of a flax plant. This material is stronger and more absorbent than cotton.

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PROS​

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  • Material is breathable, durable, lightweight, absorbent, antimicrobial, moth-resistant and cool

  • The production is cost-effective as nothing is wasted

  • Requires far less water than cotton 

  • Does not require any chemical fertilizers or pesticides

  • Biodegradable 

  • Linen is a plant-based fabric made from flax that can be grown on rough terrain that is otherwise unsuitable for food production

  • Fewer travel miles for transport as it is mostly found in Europe

  • Hardier material than cotton as it can withstand high temperatures and will get stronger with every wash so will last longer

 

CONS

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  • Conventional linen can be converted into fiber from the flax crop with the water-retting process, this results in a high amount of pollutants leaking into waterways (more eco-friendly methods that could be used is enzyme-retting or dew-retting)

  • Linen crinkles very easily and so requires ironing

LINEN

Wool is a textile fabric made from the hair from sheep and other animals. Wool consists of protein together with a few percent lipids. In this regard it is chemically quite distinct from the more dominant textile, cotton, which is mainly cellulose

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PROS

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  • Material= tough, hardy and wrinkle-resistant

  • Holds dyes without the need for chemicals

  • It is an all-natural/renewable fibre that is planet-friendly

  • Sheeps are a part of a natural carbon cycle as organic carbon is stored in plants which they eat and are then converted into wool (50% of the weight of wool is pure carbon)

  • Have a long lifespan that means they can be used and worn for longer

  • Wool is biodegradable and will take 6 months to completely degrade in ideal conditions

  • Wool contains a high percentage of nitrogen which makes wool a good “slow-release” fertiliser

CONS

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  • Animal product- sheeps do produce methane emissions which are damaging to the ozone layer

WOOL

These materials currently dominate the clothing industry and is found in around 60% of clothing, often blended with other materials.

Made from synthetic polymers that are made from esters of dihydric alcohol and terpthalic acid – they are refoined from crude oil 

Acrylic fabrics are polycrylonitriles (may cause cancer).

 Nylon are made from petroleum + given a chemical finish

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PROS

  • Versatile fabrics with vibrant colours, prints and fabric finishes

  • Microplastics- gives off thousands of plastic microfibres when washed which travel through our sewage system into the ocean where marine animals ingest them- which we then eat. 

  • Cheap

CONS

  • Dyes used to create these vibrant colours are made from the addition of toxic chemicals.

  • Textile dying is the second largest polluter of clean water globally (after agriculture)

  • Recyled Polyester (rPET) now can be used made from post-consumer recycled plastic (e.g. water bottles). This has a 75% lower carbon footprint than virgin polyester

  • Toxic chemicals- banned in certain countries because they are toxic and bio-accumulate causing disruption to hormones and are carcinogenic.

  • Acrylic is a manmade alternative to wool

  • Polyester either does not biodegrade or takes a very long time (around 200 years), thus present a serious threat to aquatic life.

  • Requires lots of energy to create

POLYESTER/ACRYLIC/NYLON

This textile is made from the plant 'Cannabis sativa' (different strand than the drug). It has a very similar texture to linen and is the most sustainable option out there!

HEMP

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PROS

  • Properties= Breathable, warm, antibacterial, moisture-wicking, easily blended

  • Doesn’t require as much water, it can produce 2 to 3 times more fiber per acre than cotton.

  • Hemp replenishes the soil it grows in rather than extracting nutrients. It is also very easy to harvest. 

  • It requires little/no pesticides and it grows without fertiliser

  • Keeps you warm in winte4r and cool in summer and is also highly UV-resistant fabric

  • Requires a relatively small amount of land to cultivate

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CONS

  • Some companies use chemicals to speed up the process of turning hemp into a fabric, to increase their yield.

Considered to be a very controversial material! It is a natural durable and flexible material created by tanning animal skins (most commonly cattle)

LEATHER

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PROS

  • Some leather companies use traditional natural dyes in their tanning, meaning less harsh chemicals are used and thus resulting in less damage to the environment and to tannery workers. Vegetable tanned leather is easier/safer to dispose of

  • Claimed that it is the by-product of the meat industry BUT (see !). As long as there are people in the world willing to eat meat  then there will always be animal parts left over, and thus it could be more sustainable to use all of their unused parts 

  • Leather alternatives are equally (if not more) environmentally negative (despite being much better in terms of animal welfare). Many of these alternatives use PVC and PU which requires petrochemicals from fossil fuels, thus increasing carbon emissions. PVC is one of the most toxic of all plastics as it is known to cause diabetes, cancer, creates birth defects and disrupt hormones- it puts nearby communities at risk. PU is better than PVC, although it still contains lots of chemicals. Some manufacturers are starting to create PU with plant-based raw materials thus reducing the amount toxic chemicals in it (plus making it biodegradable!). 

  • Leather lasts much longer than its alternatives, thus is less likely to end up in a landfill as quickly. It is best to try and get as much wear out of your leather items as possible! 

CONS

  • Intensive animal rearing has major environmental and ethical impliciations (e.g. deforestation, methane levels increasing, animal cruelty) 

  • Tanning methods uses heavy metal chemicals, such as chromium (a carcinogen that pollutes waterways and soil). 85-90% of leather is chromium treated.

  • ! Leather has a higher cost than meat and thus farmers may be killing these animals more for their skin than their meat. (Grey area of debate)

Made from a sturdy cotton warp-faced textile that is made from weaved weft then dyed. In order to prevent fading so you can keep wearing them for longer, try washing them less often.

DENIM

PROS

 

CONS

  • Require vast quantities of water to produce (1 pair of Levi jeans used 3781 litres of water!)

  • Dying of denim  uses harmful chemicals (e.g. Azo dyes release carcinogenic amines)- these cause damage to the environment and also worker health and safety. (look out for dyes that are natural or organic)

  • Sandblasting- to create ‘distressed’ jeans some companies use this technique, which literally blasts the jeans with sand to soften the fabric and wear them down. This process puts workers at significant health risks (it lodges in people’s lungs). Better methods include stone-washing, sandpapering or lasering, though these methods are more costly.

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Soy silk is made from left over soy protein fiber from the processing of soybeans into food. The fabric is a man-made cellulosic material, which means it has to be chemically broken down from the plant into the fabric. This process breaks down the proteins through heating/exposing them to alkali’s/enzymes, they are then filtered down and the fibers separate into long strands that link together using formaldehyde (a known irritant that has been classified as a possible human carcinogen)

SOY SILK/CASHMERE

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PROS

  • The soy fabric is a by-product of the soy food industry, thus it is limiting waste.

  • Completely biodegradable and so has a minimal impact on the environment

  • The soysilk is produced in a closed loop so that chemicals are reused rather than wasted 

  • Light/smooth/delicate material

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CONS

  • The production uses formaldehyde which is a known possible human carcinogen, though these chemicals are often re-used, they are still exposed to the workers 

  • The production of the soy, despite being a good replacement of meat, uses large amounts of water and pesticides for cultivation. It causes mass habitat destruction, food shortages and displaces many Indigenous communities from their lands.

BAMBOO

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PROS

  • This is a natural fiber and thus is biodegradable 

  • Material is incredibly durable, naturally antibacterial and moisture-wicking

  • Requires very little water

  • No fertilizers or pesticides are usually needed to grow

  • Buying cork materials actually help to prevent the desertification of cork oak trees as they keep regenerating

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CONS

  • Very chemically intensive to turn the plant into a fabric

  • Produces a large amount of waste

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